Before I start, I’d like to say that there is so much history attached to Karbala that it is beyond my ability to contain it in a measly blog post. So, where possible I’ve put in links to other sources, should you wish to read more. Anyways, on with the snark…
As I may have mentioned before, Karbala is seriously holy. These guys take religion and turn it all the way up to 11. I suppose you could describe it as a Disneyland for religious fervour, not that I would you know, what with being totally sensitive to all religious sentiment (I don’t like fatwas, they don’t suit my skin tone).
So it stands to reason that the main tourist attraction in Karbala would be not one, but two (yes TWO ladies and gentlemen) shrines. These impressive displays of Islamic architecture are the heart of the city, and all life revolves around them (especially at the time of year I visited – see Muharram and Ashura). Have a look here to see how large these structures really are; just make sure your map is set to Satellite. They are joined by a large boulevard, lined with trees, which is populated by devout tourists and tourist photographers. You pay these men with impressive digital cameras slung around their necks to take your photograph in front of the shrines then pick up your photograph (or mug, or mousemat, or wall clock or any other printable surface) a few hours later, freshly printed and ready to be mounted on the nearest fridge.
You’d be forgiven for developing a serious case of shrine fatigue after spending just a few days in Iraq; they’re dotted all over the place and can be easily spotted by the shiny gold EVERTHING – domes, doors, pillars, the works, but before you give up on all the holiness and disappear, here’s a bit more detail on why one of these shrines in particular inspires millions to visit throughout the year, but especially at the time of Ashura.
So, from the beginning - Imam Ali, who according to Shia Muslims was the first Islamic leader after the Prophet Mohammed. (The Sunni’s disagree. And this, my friends is the huge and insurmountable difference between these two branches of the same faith.), had a son who was known as Imam Hussain. This man was martyred at the Battle of Karbala and was buried at the site of the Imam Hussain shrine. Makes sense right? And every year, millions of Shia pilgrims come to celebrate the life (but mostly mourn the death) of Imam Hussain (they’re a miserable lot).
If taken in isolation, the building looks as if it belongs in a very prosperous nation. But when you expand your field of vision, it’s hard not to notice the patches that cover the devastation of 1991 – when Saddam’s Republican Guard besieged the town. So while I found it architecturally and aesthetically pleasing, and it is a testament to faith that will allow structures like this to exist, I found the display of wealth to be overwhelming and a little distasteful.
Now, having mentioned 1991, I have to go into a very brief overview of the history. Apologies, but this bit isn’t going to be funny or sarcastic – I shall attempt to remedy this later.
From 5 to 19 March 1991, Karbala was the site of a rebellion against Saddam Hussain. As you can imagine, he didn’t take kindly to this, and so, sent his national army – the infamous Republican Guard to quiet down the population.
The achieved this by shooting anyone they saw on the streets. By arresting every male over the age of 15. By killing any medical professional that was found to be helping injured citizens. And once the Al Hussaini hospital was taken by the Republican Guard, they killed the remainder of the doctors and nurses and threw the patients out of the windows.
Bear in mind, that at this time, there were repeated calls for external help – specifically from America and Iran. And despite the extreme interest these countries have since shown in Iraq, they left a city of 150 thousand people to defend itself against its own government.
The scars are still visible as every house is strafed with bullet holes and entire streets disappear under rubble.
Mass graves are still being discovered as the city is redeveloped.
The shell of my dad’s old house still remains, down a street of cracked but beautiful traditional buildings. On the day it was bombed, the Republican Guard gave all residents in that area 30 minutes to evacuate. Which was nice of them right? Only it means that the place that 3 generations of my family lived in at the same time has now gone. I can’t go into my dad’s old bedroom, as all that remains is a wall and a shattered window. I can’t see the photographs that weren’t rescued, the heirlooms passed down through the generations. If you had 30 minutes to leave your home – what would you take? And where would you go?
As I may have mentioned before, Karbala is seriously holy. These guys take religion and turn it all the way up to 11. I suppose you could describe it as a Disneyland for religious fervour, not that I would you know, what with being totally sensitive to all religious sentiment (I don’t like fatwas, they don’t suit my skin tone).
So it stands to reason that the main tourist attraction in Karbala would be not one, but two (yes TWO ladies and gentlemen) shrines. These impressive displays of Islamic architecture are the heart of the city, and all life revolves around them (especially at the time of year I visited – see Muharram and Ashura). Have a look here to see how large these structures really are; just make sure your map is set to Satellite. They are joined by a large boulevard, lined with trees, which is populated by devout tourists and tourist photographers. You pay these men with impressive digital cameras slung around their necks to take your photograph in front of the shrines then pick up your photograph (or mug, or mousemat, or wall clock or any other printable surface) a few hours later, freshly printed and ready to be mounted on the nearest fridge.
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| Just before we got on Splash Mountain |
You’d be forgiven for developing a serious case of shrine fatigue after spending just a few days in Iraq; they’re dotted all over the place and can be easily spotted by the shiny gold EVERTHING – domes, doors, pillars, the works, but before you give up on all the holiness and disappear, here’s a bit more detail on why one of these shrines in particular inspires millions to visit throughout the year, but especially at the time of Ashura.
So, from the beginning - Imam Ali, who according to Shia Muslims was the first Islamic leader after the Prophet Mohammed. (The Sunni’s disagree. And this, my friends is the huge and insurmountable difference between these two branches of the same faith.), had a son who was known as Imam Hussain. This man was martyred at the Battle of Karbala and was buried at the site of the Imam Hussain shrine. Makes sense right? And every year, millions of Shia pilgrims come to celebrate the life (but mostly mourn the death) of Imam Hussain (they’re a miserable lot).
If taken in isolation, the building looks as if it belongs in a very prosperous nation. But when you expand your field of vision, it’s hard not to notice the patches that cover the devastation of 1991 – when Saddam’s Republican Guard besieged the town. So while I found it architecturally and aesthetically pleasing, and it is a testament to faith that will allow structures like this to exist, I found the display of wealth to be overwhelming and a little distasteful.
Now, having mentioned 1991, I have to go into a very brief overview of the history. Apologies, but this bit isn’t going to be funny or sarcastic – I shall attempt to remedy this later.
From 5 to 19 March 1991, Karbala was the site of a rebellion against Saddam Hussain. As you can imagine, he didn’t take kindly to this, and so, sent his national army – the infamous Republican Guard to quiet down the population.
The achieved this by shooting anyone they saw on the streets. By arresting every male over the age of 15. By killing any medical professional that was found to be helping injured citizens. And once the Al Hussaini hospital was taken by the Republican Guard, they killed the remainder of the doctors and nurses and threw the patients out of the windows.
Bear in mind, that at this time, there were repeated calls for external help – specifically from America and Iran. And despite the extreme interest these countries have since shown in Iraq, they left a city of 150 thousand people to defend itself against its own government.
The scars are still visible as every house is strafed with bullet holes and entire streets disappear under rubble.
Mass graves are still being discovered as the city is redeveloped.
The shell of my dad’s old house still remains, down a street of cracked but beautiful traditional buildings. On the day it was bombed, the Republican Guard gave all residents in that area 30 minutes to evacuate. Which was nice of them right? Only it means that the place that 3 generations of my family lived in at the same time has now gone. I can’t go into my dad’s old bedroom, as all that remains is a wall and a shattered window. I can’t see the photographs that weren’t rescued, the heirlooms passed down through the generations. If you had 30 minutes to leave your home – what would you take? And where would you go?
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